IN THE MED
Cruising again: Soller and Cala de San Vicente, Majorca
May 21, 2012
The time came to say goodbye to Sant Carles and the friends we made there. We left at about 11:00 a.m. bound for Majorca (again) about 120 nautical miles away. First we spent a few hours trying to sail to windward in very light airs and almost gave up but motored for an hour instead after which time the wind built and veered and we were able to sail a course to Soller, the only port of refuge on the dramatic but inhospitable NW coast. Most of the night we were accompanied by schools of porpoises – cute. At about 2:30 a.m. all the shipping seemed to converge on us but again, thanks to AIS and RADAR, we could navigate safely through.
After about 30 hours of gentle sailing and a bit more motoring we arrived and dropped anchor in the beautiful, almost circular, bay of Soller. We forgot to look for a nice sandy patch in which to anchor (not having done it since last year) but our new ‘Spade’ anchor bit straight away and held fast. In fact, it grabbed so positively we felt it could hold anything – brilliant!
Soller is best seen from the water but is worth a trip ashore to see (and catch) the wonderful vintage wooden tram that runs regularly from the port to the town (which was built a bit inland to avoid attack by pirates). The town is has some lovely, shady, narrow streets filled with small shops and cafes and a large church with a square in front with more cafes. The local beef and pea pies and ice creams were particularly good.
Wandering around we heard mainly German being spoken with some English (I wonder how the Champions’ League final was viewed there!).
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After our first night we woke to find our friends Tony and Ann from Sant Carles on board Razzmatazz, their ex-racing catamaran, anchored next to us. They had left Sant Carles the previous morning and arrived at about 2 a.m. after a spirited sail.
We left Soller after a few days. The forecast was for a decent breeze which failed to materialize so we motored to nearby Cala de San Vicente and anchored for the night. The cala itself is very pretty, surrounded by rocks and cliffs populated with goats, but is overlooked by some architecturally questionable holiday developments and some fabulously situated villas.
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There was already another sailing boat at anchor and it turned out to be John and Maggie on Lazy Pelican whom we had been in contact with over the previous couple of days through the Cruising Association. We were invited on board for drinks and found that we had more in common than sailing – we’d all worked in Doha in the 80’s on the University of Qatar and had friends in common. It is a small world.
By the way, I may have mentioned it before, but the photo quality is much better viewed under Photos than in the Blog section. Don’t know why.

SimonBorland August 10, 2012 at 04:52 PM
HI – thanks for posting about your travels. Im looking to circumnavigate Mallorca clockwise from Palma in 7 days.. (18-25 Aug)
I am wondering if you have any suggestions tips of warnings? It seems a long sail from Palma to Soller, then to Pollensa etc.. thats a long and rugged coast from the descriptons and photos Ive found.
Maybe we should go the way instead, and not go all the way around!
Its a Bavaria 49, with 7 holiday makers, and I hope to keep a worthwhile blog also, to help others!
Cheers
Simon
Muskrat August 11, 2012 at 03:03 PM
Hi Simon,
Thanks for your comment.
I think you might find 7 days a bit short for a circumnavigation with holiday makers if you want a fairly relaxed time (but then again we travel slowly). Unless you’re prepared to motor a lot, the wind usually dictates how quickly and in which direction you sail.
We didn’t sail the SW corner from Palma as far as Soller, only to near Andratx, so can’t really say much about that section, except that there are a number of anchorages around Palma that are delightful, particularly around P. del Bufado where you can quickly move from one side to the other if the wind changes.
If you do decide to go all the way round, you’re right about the north coast though, it is long and rugged and I believe even Soller gets uncomfortable in strong on shore winds. There are one or two possible stopovers before Pollensa though such as C. Tuent and C. de S. Vicente providing you don’t have any on-shore winds.
Cabo de Formentor caught us out after non-existent/light winds after we left S. Vincente to 27 knots round the cape so I would recommend reefing before you get there (or enjoy a wild sail to windward as we did). Once round the corner there are some lovely calas such as Murta and Formentor (on expensive buoys at this time of year).
Hope that helps and that you have a great time,
Happy sailing,
Will
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