2011 : More Baltic Sea

N 55° 14' E 09° 30'

Full circle

August 16, 2011

15th August :

What’s that big yellow ball in the sky ???? Sunshine ?? Are we still in Denmark ?

Why move on when we can stay put and do more chores ? We take advantage of the day and polish the stainless steel on deck, do some wax and polish in the cockpit, get all the anchor chain out for a wash and dry. We are way ahead now on our cleaning jobs before leaving the boat.

Paul and Jean come to Solero for dinner of risotto and more stories. Though we make it to bed a bit earlier than last night. 

16th August :

Our last day…..

Beautiful day for a sail. Sun is out, 10 knots of breeze from just the right direction to get our the Fantazolam again !!!! Dave has to promise to not get it wet when we drop it. Not bad when you can do 6.5 knots in 8 knots of wind. We love this boat !!

Glad we did put it up as the wind keeps easing and we’d be very slow without it.

The 5 NM Haderslev fjord is now in sight. The long motor ‘home’ to the X-yachts factory where it all started last June. I’m a bit melancholy about the end of our sailing for the year, and then it starts raining. 

So our 2011 year is over. We have done 1277 NM this year (1457 last year, but with 2 more weeks on board). While the weather hasn’t been as good (the west coast of sweden gets more rain than the east) we are still very glad we did this side of Sweden. A very different nature here. The scenery is fantastic. Norway was great too. We met so very many friendly and generous people this year. A sure way to meet new people was to declare an AFD or LAD (Alcohol Free Day or Low Alcohol Day). Before you know it you will be enjoying the sunset and a few beers or a wine with new friends.

Here in Haderslev we have a few days to do all the washing, vacuum the boat, stow our things away for winter.

Dave has Man Flu, so looks like I will get to do most of the cleaning. He declares a LAD. Denmark’s National Dish beckons as we go into town for dinner – pizza. On the way back to our boat we see the stern of another X-yacht here at the yard – whose home port in Port Vila Vanuatu. We have to find out the story here, so knock on the hull and meet her owner. Before we even tell Peter our names, he has poured us a glass of wine each !! Yachties are such friendly people. Turns out he lived for many years in New Zealand and had some business in Vanuatu. Now he lives in Tuscany but cruises in the Baltic each summer on his lovely X44, Pacific XL.


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N 55° 02' E 09° 42'

Another bloody German attachment

August 14, 2011


13th August :

We were going to go a little further on to Faaborg, a town we liked last year on our visit. But as Leslie wisely said, why swap one wet Danish town for another ? At least here we have a very good berth and town is close by, so we stay put for another day. There is a Saturday morning market, so we go in for a look around. The rain eases in the afternoon and we get another walk in.

At 10:30 at night a German yacht suddenly appears and without hailing or asking they tie up alongside us, in a modified crash landing manner. I point out the vacant berths elsewhere in the marina, but they declare they are going to stay tied to us for the night !!! We aren’t rude enough to tell them to bugger off. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. So we spend an hour listening to them all walk across our boat to go to the loo.  After midnight one of them decides to stomp around on our deck again to plug the electricity cable in. Why they didn’t do it when they first arrived I don’t know. So now they cop an angry Dee in full flight. I’m not sure how many of my swearwords were translatable to German, but there was a mumbled apology and no further comings and goings after that. 

14th August :

I delight in thumping on their hull to wake them up so we can leave this morning. 

We soon realise the reason they attached themselves to us was that their boat skills are so poor, they couldn’t manage to get into the other berths. They get ready to move off, but have a line still attached to our boat that they can’t slip. A vindictive Dee detaches it then lets it fall in the water instead of handing it back dry (don’t wake me up next time). As they move off us they crash into a post and boat behind us. We look back and he has done 3 circles and still not remoored to the quay.

We have a great sail today heading west with an easterly breeze to Dyvig. We think we have done very well to avoid the rain that we have seen nearby. But of course this is Denmark and you can’t avoid it completely, so we get wet for half an hour before we arrive in Dyvig. This was where we spent our first night at anchor on Solero last year, and we anchor again in the inner bay this time. Its a great anchorage, entered via a narrow channel, so is protected in all winds. 

We have a shower to warm up, get dry, then get a call from Paul and Jean on board Caritas. We met them in the Gota Canal and have been trying to meet up  with them. They are at the new marina in Dyvig. We stowed our dinghy away on a dry day in Kerteminde, now we can’t dinghy over.  So its back out in the rain and move over to the marina. 

We have pasta for dinner on Caritas and swap stories of the summer. Crowded marinas, rain and winds on the nose get mentioned more than once. Paul and Jean have another couple of weeks of cruising and we hope the weather improves for them. School holidays are over, so the locals say the sun will come out now.


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N 55° 03' E 10° 36'


August 12, 2011

11th August :

Well, it was forecast to rain all day, and lived up to that. 

Peter and Leslie join us for dinner at a fantastic local restaurant. We have a window seat and look out admiring each others’ boat.

I’ve had some time to reflect on Margot’s week with us, and she got some (mostly unfortunate) firsts….

The first to be out with us in over 30 knots.

The first time we’ve done 4 consecutive days of 50+ NM each.

The first to get rain just about every day.

And one good one – The first to see the gennaker up (not counting the 5 mins with Bev and Steve).

We hope we haven’t put her off sailing.

12th August :

Peter has the day off and joins us for the day. The wind is now Easterly and we head SE to the bridge over Store Belt, the south to Sonderborg. Peter has a great time on the helm as we worked our way to the bridge. 15 knots, reef in the main, boat heeling over and he had to go and put his contacts in because of the rain !!

After the bridge we were on a reach and doing 9 knots and surfing down the waves, great fun. And it stopped raining. Just before Svendborg there is a series of short legs in the channel. We went charging up there under full sail, overtaking about 5 other boats on the way round the marks.

Svendorg was a good port. We found an alongside berth, tied up no problems. Fish shop just off the end of they quay. Lots of German boats here as they head home at the end of the season.

Leslie drove down to pick up Peter, so we had chicken and pesto pasta on board, then out to a little pub they know for a beer. Lovely.





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N 55° 26' E 10° 39'

Kerteminde at last

August 09, 2011

We depart at last, the wind still westerly and 15-20 knots. We have to work into the wind for the first 20 miles, then as we turn south the wind goes NW and at last we are sailing downwind. Much easier. We are now averaging 9 knots, and touching 10 with the waves (with the main’s reef still in).

At Kerteminde we are going to visit Peter and Leslie whom we met last year, and they have allowed us to tie up alongside their boat Belona. The 2 knot current makes it a little interesting, and we nearly get all the lines on before the next rain squall comes through. Not quite though.

We will have a few days here with 30+ knots forecast tomorrow and rain all day the next.

Peter and Leslie come aboard to see Solero (we visited by car from Copenhagen last year).

10th August : Chores day. We dinghy over to the main marina to use the washing machines . A bit cheeky, but they have 6 machines and none were busy. We get the dinghy washed and dry to stow tomorrow. I defrost the freezer. We dodge the rain squalls.

Dinner is roast smoked turkey drumsticks -yummy


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N 55° 50' E 11° 28'

Another crap day

August 07, 2011

Yes, its an onshore wind this morning so by 07:30 we are away.

SW wind (of course we are heading W) so its hard going tacking upwind in 20 – 25knots, with the swell 2m. 

When the gusts get over 30 knots we decide this is will be very silly for another 4 hours, and we head downwind to Havnso harbour, where we are able to tie alongside. We’ve done 23 NM in 3.5 hours, but ultimately covered about 6 !!! We wondered why we hadn’t seen another single yacht out, and heard a radio report of a grounded yacht.

Its a quiet local harbour with not many other visitors (and no washing machine), but has the essentials : a supermarket, quaint pub, ice-cream shop and a couple of fish restaurants. We forgot to get cash out yesterday in Holbaek, and are out of luck here. There is no ATM, and while the supermarket can process a sale on our cards, it can’t give cash out. THEPUBONLYTAKESCASH !! THIS IS A CRISIS !!!!

Then a brainwave, we have some euro already ! The man at the pub will accept euro – PHEW that was close.

We celebrate Margot’s last night on board with Dave’s famous Swedish Meatballs.

They must have very clever dogs in Havnso that read signs !!



When will these SW winds stop ???

Margot is leaving today so its off to the bus stop. In the rest of Scandinavia you can pay for a bus fare with a credit card, But can you in Havnso ? NO. Luckily for us the bus driver agrees to swap our euro and pay the fares. We can get some cash out, see Margot to the train and go back to Havnso on the next bus.

We consider an afternoon departure, but the forecast is for 20 knots all afternoon. Another boat heads out though. After a thunderstorm goes through (and we are saying thank goodness we stayed put) , the wind dies down, the sun comes out, and it would have been a great afternoon to motor somewhere else. Bloody forecasts.


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N 55° 54' E 11° 30'


August 06, 2011

This morning we motored (into the wind) south to Holbaek. We drop the anchor and take the dinghy ashore where the very helpful phone shop man helped us to reconnect to the internet and get a Danish mobile sim card. A trip to the supermarket aswell and its back to the boat at midday.

We decide the weather looks good this afternoon, we will try and go further west. But first we have to go north out of Isjeford, and the wind has swung round, so its motor north now. 

Its an enjoyable afternoon with the sun out for a change. At 5pm we even get the Fantazolam sail out for an hour or so. Margot is suitably impressed.

Its 8pm by the time we anchor for the night, another 61NM under our belt. The NE wind we anchor in turns SE after dark and its not such a good spot. With a SW (onshore) forecast for tomorrow morning, its going to be an early start.


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N 55° 49' E 11° 44'

Denmark at last

August 05, 2011

The Herring Festival turned out to be a bit of a fizzer. Only 20 people or so in the marque listening to the live band, and only a few dancing. I managed to fall asleep at 11pm in spite of the music, which finished at midnight. The harbour master had been very excited to have the first ever Australian vessel stay in his harbour, and mentioned getting the local paper to take a photo! They never appeared, fortunately, and we were off to Denmark having spent the last of our Swedish Kroner.

The day started well on a reach, but before long the wind had swung onto the nose and we were tacking again most of the day to Isjeford, some 50NM in all.

We found a courtesy buoy to tie to for the night, and enjoyed our roast chicken for dinner.


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N 56° 17' E 12° 29'

Another BIG day

August 04, 2011

This turned out to be an epic. We set off down the coast, and hoped to cross over to Denmark today. But the wind was up and so was the swell, so decided to go back inshore for calmer conditions. With 15 to 20 knots in the afternoon, the natural harbour options were few, and in the end we pressed on to the harbour at Molle, where we tied alongside a fishing tours vessel. On the way we pass the Kullaberg Nature Reserve, which is the high cliffs on the end of the point. People are everywhere climbing up and down the slopes, rock fishing and swimming. By the end of our 10 hour day we have done 81NM. Poor Margot signed up for a holiday cruise and we have her doing all these miles !!

I have slept poorly the last 2 nights worrying a little about the weather etc for our crossing, so imagine my delight when the excited harbour master says “You are here just in time. We have for 3 day the HERRINGFESTIVAL !!! There is music till 3am here on the stage” !!! Bugger

So much for an early night. And so much for the pork chops, we decide we must partake in the Herring festival and go out for dinner. Margot enjoys the herring, but I have fried plaice and Dave opts for (delicious) chicken drumsticks. The music part of the festival we can’t avoid, though thankfully I think it finished about 11:30, or if it didn’t I was unconscious by then despite it.


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N 57° 06' E 12° 13'


August 03, 2011

We are on a mission now, to get south and west over to Denmark.

Today the wind is SE and we are travelling south. Undeterred its sails up and we tack all the way to Vaberg. It takes 51 NM to travel about 35NM in the direct route. Still its a sunny day with calm seas, so very pleasant. We have actually continued further south than planned seeing conditions are good, and on the last 10 NM or so, we didn’t have to tack back and forth.

Skrivareklippan is a little island just north of the main shipping channel into Vaberg, and the port is a busy one. We see the huge ferries come and go, a naval vessel, a helicopter flies low over the anchorage. We can even hear the duff duff or music from somewhere in town, thankfully not all night.

I had bought a sushi kit in Hunnersbostrand, mainly for the wasabi (as the tubes of wasabi were sold out). I wasn’t expecting great sushi, and it wasn’t. Hint for future reference, wash the rice before cooking it to get some of the starch out, it was very gluggy. Still, average only sushi is better than no sushi, and we are closer to fitting in our outfits.


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N 57° 35' E 11° 45'

Last night in the Swedish Skerries

August 02, 2011

My sister Margot arrives this morning for a week on board. We catch the tram into town (what great public transport, they go past every 5 or so minutes) to meet her. After provisioning its off we go, saying goodbye to an Aussie we met yesterday. He is working on a motor yacht currently in Goteborg, and came over yesterday to say hello. He just happens to be from Coal Point – about 10 NM from us on the other side of Lake Macquarie !!! 

The harbour office has even managed to find an Australian flag to raise – they try to have the flag up of any guest boat in harbour at the time. We only saw ours once last year in Oxelosund.

Stora Ravholmen is our anchorage, and the water is the warmest yet (remember thats relatively speaking), and we all have a swim. There’s the obligatory walk ashore to climb the local hill. Then my Meditteranean vegetable cous cous salad with grilled salmon -YUM  We are all on diets to fit into our glad rags, with an English cousin’s wedding later in August – we’ll see how that goes. Last year I lost 3 kg over the trip, but with so many visitors this time….. not to mention the smorgasbord every breakfast and lunch on the Hurtigruten cruise !!



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