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Rude awakening by the water tanker creeping through the yacht anchorage to reach the quay. Weighed anchor and departed forthwith. The day had come to leave Greek waters and cross to Turkey, and start a new chapter.

Rowed ashore and walked up from Pedi through the hill top village of Chorio and down to Gialos. Relieved to find some decent bread and a bus to bring us back. Ridiculously hot!

Left the solitude and tranquillity of Ormos Agios Emilianos to round the north end of Symi through narrow, shallow Stenon Nimou. Called in at the quayside fuel station in Gialos before trying Ormos Pedi for an overnight stop. Eventually found space and holding for the anchor.

Tried to sail east from Tilos, struggled for wind till after 2.00 pm then found it following the Datca peninsula coastline, once again gybing downwind in broad reaches with three sails flying. We finally reached the anchorage of Agios Emilianos on the north east coast of Symi at dusk. Surprisingly, for the first time in a month, we had an anchorage to ourselves.

We went out to dinner (keen followers of this story will notice this is a first) at the Faros restaurant, a suitably romantic terrace overlooking the bay, to the accompaniment of a Geordie-led folk-blues-rock duo.

Took the coastal path north to Lethra then inland up to Mikro Horio: an abandoned village, once of substantial size and diversity; now only the churches are preserved and a late night music venue is its only life.

Spent half the morning sorting out a cash withdrawal: the ATM refused our card, we ended up having to pay an exchange commission over the counter. Spent a pleasant hour in a tree -shaded churchyard next to the Tourist Information Centre to use their wifi hotspot.

Walked the coastal path southeast of Livadia, past the tiny well kept church of Agios Ioannis, on toward the former summer settlement of Gera, now left to the goats.

After surviving fierce katabatic gusts in the early hours, rowed ashore in a morning lull to wander around the village and check out the harbour. When the rising meltemi had the anchor dragging off a lee shore, we availed ourselves of its shelter.

On hauling in the stern anchor to depart Palon, discovered that we were down to three strands of the eight strand multiplait rode. Headed off towards Tilos on a fluctuating light breeze, gybing downwind on broad reaches, three sails flying. Meltemi arrived at 2.00 pm as we approached Ormos Livadhiou. Joined the row of yachts anchored off the beach.