Back to Turkey

N 36° 49' E 28° 18'

Back to Turkey

November 03, 2009

Gentle sail across from Simi to Bozborun polishing the stainless in beautiful sunshine and light winds aft.

Anchored in our normal swim spot all on our own and decided to stay the night with a line ashore. Quietest night for tow months!

Started today with a swim and then cleaned the algae off the hull water line. Motored into Boz for salad shopping and also bought a barracuda and a very large beef sausage for the BBQ. Lunch was fab. You must try fresh barracuda; almost beats fresh swordfish….

Now at the Octopus restaurant jetty and looking forward to Cigaren Boreci!

Had a very tasty meal at the Octopus Restaurant: Cigaren Boreki followed by a chicken casserole for Jenny and the best octopus casserole I’ve tasted to date.  Including free Wi-Fi, Elect and Water, as well as mooring and toilets/showers, it was 60YTL well spent.

Sat 31/10/09

Set off fairly early (0800hrs) to miss the swell that builds up in the bay. Had to motorsail as very little wind for two hours. Gradually increased to being sailable (8kn following) by 1030. As we left the bay the sea calmed down, as per norm. Wind increased to a goose winged run giving 6kn for an hour in the sunshine before we turned into Bozuk Buku and anchored at the head of the bay. The only boat there apart from several at the Ali Baba Restaurant jetty under the Citadel.

A bit swelly and quite windy at night (gusting 20kn) but OK. Managed to finally sort the wiring for the interconnection of the plotter/DSC radio/TackTick instrumentation and now have a fully operational and interconnected system. Only remains to repair the autopilot thruster this winter and  will be able to steer by the wind next year, as well as by compass.

Sun 01/11/09

After a lay-in, we set off at 0945hrs in a freshening wind on the beam along the S coast and reached speeds of  8.1 kn as the wind kept gusting from 10 to 21kn as we passed various headlands. Very interesting sailing! 

Checked out Arap Adasi and considered staying there for lunch as it was so protected and beautiful but decided to press on and lunch at our O/N destination of Gerbekse. This is a gem of a place; tucked in behind a peninsular with a lovely view and fairly intact Byzantine ruins visible from the cockpit. Had a filling late lunch of local beef sausage on the BBQ and lazed a couple of hours before the sun set. Put the winter cockpit covers on to keep the wind out; very snug.

Mon 02/11/09 After a night of being woken continually by the rocking, the wind gusting through the rigging and the anchor chain grinding as we dragged around and around, I was up at dawn checking that we were OK, and we were, but it was a long night. The scenery made up for it though. A breakfast in the sun and a walk ashore around the ruins of the Byzantine church put my views of the world to rights. We set off and explored the next anchorage/mooring of Ciftlik. May stay there next year on our way back west, as it looks like a nice scenic and secure spot with a couple of jetties c/w flag wavers.

Continued on with full sail in the fitful 0 to 8kn wind with occasional 15kn gusts as we passed headlands. Reached the main headland to turn towards Marmaris (Kadirga Burnu) and the wind suddenly whipped up to 20 knots close hauled and laid us over with the water gurgling along the starboard deck next to the cockpit. Jenny’s screams prompted me to let the sheets go and reduce sail to half….. had a great couple of hours tacking across the bay several times (viewed our ultimate destination of Yat Marin) from the seaward side! Called in at every listed anchorage to the west of Marmaris and discarded them all as unsuitable for various reasons (pilot book is way out of date, even tho’ it’s the latest one available). The wind died down to 8kn in the bay as we circled the shore inspecting each location. Saw that there is a dolphin ‘pen’ in the bay at the SW corner for people to ‘swim with dolphins’ (not a welcome sight!). Very strange to be viewing the town from the sea instead of the shore (it’s been 12 years since we sailed here with Trevor). Marmaris actually looks quite upmarket, at this time of the year, at any rate.

Eventually anchored up near the castle off the main promenade in company with a score of other boats. Excellent location. After stocking up at Tansas we ate out at the ’ Los Amigos’ and chatted to the owner. Closing up next week he said. It was the coldest I’ve ever known Turkey and the last time we will eat out of doors. Winter has come early!

Tues 03/11/09 After a great nights sleep, with no noise, apart from the Mullah at 0545hrs, we awoke at 0800hrs to a bootifully sunny day and a millpond. Simple breakfast of fresh bread and cream cheese and a cup of coffee in the sun made up for the cold night out for dinner (the casserole was delicious, by the way). Explored our way around the bay and its northern anchorages and booked into Yat Marin on ‘November’ pontoon (how apt!) By total coincidence, the boat alongside was ‘Bluejacket’ with Mick and Jill, of lightening strike fame from Panormitis. He is progressing with Raymarine quoting for full replacement of everything electrical. He convinced me that AIS is a ‘how did I manage without it’ item. 2010 installation coming up!

Seems we managed to arrive at a propitious time as the weather is due to change overnight with thunderstorms and 3 inches of rain forecast and wind gusting to 70knots… Tied up to a pontoon seems like a good idea. The wind is already gusting and the stars are hidden from view. All hatches closed and snugged down!

 

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