Bahamas Voyage

At a Glance

Captain/Skipper Maj-Lis and Don
Est. total length --
Boat Name --
Boat Type --

Maj-Lis and Donby Maj-Lis and Don
Toronto - Bahamas - Florida


Journal

N 25° 43' W 79° 17'

Its New Years in the Bahamas

January 01, 2009

Its New Years Eve and we just arrived in Bimini.

The crossing was fine although a bit rolly when we were in the strongest grip of the Gulf Stream. We had a northwest wind of 15 knots. It was not supposed to happen and fortunately the waves did not have time to build.

It seems like a long time since we left Toronto. Now we can slow down.

Happy New Year from the Happy Voyageurs.

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N 26° 01' W 80° 06'

Bahamas Bound ... maybe

December 30, 2008

We have been in Miami for about a week.

Wednesday looks like a potential day for us to crosss to Bahamas – although hardly perfect – little wind but north waves 3 feet on the beam – rolly. So, we’ll arm ourselves with gravol and courage and try. If the waves drive us crazy we will return to No Name Harbour to wait at least another week for the next try.

Murphy has been providing lessons regularly and no doubt there will be a few more lessons tomorrow. 

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N 26° 01' W 80° 06'

Twas a few nights before Christmas...

December 23, 2008

Twas a few nights before Christmas…When all through the boat , swept a strong breeze from the north � that meant those Canadians were trying to send us their snow. Well no way! It’s warm down here – even if a little breezy today. We’re anchored in Lake Sylvia in Fort Lauderdale. The “lake” is about 500 yds. in diameter with opulent homes on the shore. We likely will spend the rest of the week in Fort Lauderdale. Hopefully a “weather window” will arrive soon, so we can cross to the Bimini Islands then on to the Exumas – warm blue water and somewhat uninhabited island beaches. That is unless Don must return to Toronto because of a dental complication. We are enjoying the summer weather. Presently the wind is howling as a cold front is passing through but once it is gone, the weather is pure delight. We spent 11 days on a mooring ball in Vero Beach, called Velcro Beach, since so many Bahamas travelers get stuck there because of its facilities. It is a great place to meet people and convenient for provisioning the boat for the Bahamas. The trip to Ft.Lauderdale included about 40 miles of housing of which the majority were quite beautiful mansions. I expect an insightful architect would find it hard to make the passage in a few days given that each house was a work onto itself. For us they were just nice to look at and we moved on to the next bridge, after bridge, after bridge. Each bridge was an exercise in: calling the operator, trying to time our arrival with their opening times then keeping the boat off the bottom, and away from other boats and the bridge, despite the wind and current. We walked along the Fort Lauderdale beach yesterday and we may have well been back on the Dee Why beach in Sydney Australia; although it was much longer. We saw the same sort of low buildings, summer shops, food spots, waves, kite surfers, waves, a carpet of bodies getting cooked � it was warm and windy. We saw Santa all dressed up driving around in a golf cart giving out goodies from the Rescue League. Christmas is only a few days away but it is hard to get into the Christmas mood, when all our family and friends are so far away. Most regretfully, of course, there is not a sign of snow on the ground or the Christmas decorations we are used to. Lately we have been playing repeatedly our one CD with Christmas music. Nevertheless, you can be sure we will be thinking of y�ll all around the globe and wish you a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year!!!

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N 27° 36' W 80° 24'

December 6 - Warm At Last

December 06, 2008

Solid Titusville mud now holds the anchor. The temperature is downright balmy at least for a few minutes before the sun drops. Such a delight it is to not have to shudder repeatedly when getting your clothes on in the morning. How easily we are now able to find bliss. We are really in Florida at last. Traveling down the Florida waterway we are taken aback by the stunning homes surrounded by palm trees and lush vegetation. Just as beautiful although much in contrast are the miles of swamplands with their shorebirds, dolphins, sand dunes, palm trees and aromatic air. Pelicans glide inches from the water thinking of the fish below. Cormorants dive happily thinking how unfortunate are their cousins in cold Toronto. Perhaps the Power Squadron could provide them a free navigation course. We can almost smell Bahamas in the distance… hopefully by Christmas. We left St Augustine yesterday morning, where we anchored close to town for two days. The buildings in the old part of town speaks of the time of the Spaniards. A small covered concrete slab was the site of the local slave auction. We continue to be numbed by the enormity of our ignorance of these places. .. lots to read about when we get the time. Last night we arrived at Daytona beach just before sundown. Then we arose at 6:00 a.m. this morning. This is our daily routine and it will continue until we reach Lake Worth near West Palm Beach – our staging point for the leap to the Bahamas. We are thinking of all the folks back home, especially now at Christmas time. It will be an unusual Christmas for us, as we will not be with family and friends. And we will not have a Christmas tree!!Maybe Jolly Old St. Nick will find us even if we are no putting out any cookies by the fireplace.

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N 30° 40' W 81° 28'

November 30 - Its Finer in Fernadina Beach,

December 01, 2008

We are now in Fernandina Beach, on the north Florida border. We were getting tired of the constant cold. It was usual to get up in the morning with nine degrees and as low as five degrees. Water would drip down from the ceiling because of an incredible amount of condensation. On the 26th we left Charleston SC then motor sailed for two days and one night. We travelled about 170 miles. This was our first night sail and with some trepidation we started in the morning hours after once more reassuring ourselves by listening to the weather report by Chris Parker, one of the weather gurus. The forecast was for 10 to 15 knots out of the west to north west for the two days – a very good weather window to enable us to escape the gripping cold for which we were not prepared. JP, our fellow traveller for the past week, was also heading out the same day, so we knew we were not alone on the vast waters. We later also learned what a fabulous community this sailing community is. Over the radio, we learnt that "First Edition" also was out there and a few other boaters as well. It felt so good to know that they were within reach, if something nasty in the night was going to surprise us. The night and darkness engulfed us in the early evening and in the very far distance we saw some lights from the shore, but otherwise it was pure darkness. The deck was invisible. Only the cockpit was visible when sitting there.The wind picked up and waves crashed against the side of the boat and the stars were shining from one corner of the sky. The boat seemed so small in this vastness and we felt quite vulnerable. We were on guard for ships emerging in the night . It was very cold in the cockpit, so the super blankets Diana and Mark bought us, were great as we huddled behind the dodger in the dark and cold. At night we chose to rely on the motor and autopilot since only one of us was on watch at any time. The winds were from 0-15 knots and shifting. Darkness lasted from 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 a.m. – so different than sailing down Lake Ontario in the summer. As the morning broke through, we stopped the engine and sailed for a couple of hours.When we came close to the Florida waters, we felt the change in temperature and were so happy to be able to toss away our winter coats, hats and mittens. Dolphins jumped around us. Most amazing thing of all – we spotted a right whale!! With only about 350 in existence they are on the verge of extinction. We felt so lucky. It surfaced a few times; blew spray, then dived saying goodbye with a flip of its tail. We were quite a distance away, but were able to watch in awe for several seconds. We got a good picture thanks to the camera zoom. Fernandina Beach is an attractive town with lots of gift shops and quite a few restaurants and an old-town feel. We experienced a bit of the Christmas feeling as there were groups of singers in traditional costumes singing carols. Santa was there. But it seemed odd – no snow! When we arrived in Fernadino Beach on Thanksgiving Day Lynn and Peter on "First Edition" invited us over for an American Thanksgiving turkey dinner on their boat. We have found so many very kind folks along the way. We are now keen to be in the Bahamas rather than continuing in Florida.. This means, making the crossing from lake Worth to Albacos sometimes in the next two weeks. We are ready for some "Island Life", lazy days, in blue,clear water and most of all WARM breezes and being able to relax.

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November 24, Chillinnnnnnn Â….in Charleston.

November 25, 2008

After a week of slugging through, we have stopped here for two days to get ourselves put together. It has been a week in the freezer. The weather is unseasonably cold, about 10 degrees lower than normal. We have certainly felt it because we are still experimenting with how to use the heater. The inside temperature is as low as five degrees when we arise and the outside is down to freezing.
Life is fairly routine: Arise around 5:30 a.m.; travel from first sign of daylight until sunset around 5:20 – sometimes anchor in the dark -; have a quick dinner, then under the covers. I sure miss the warmth and comfort of my previous life in these times. Hopefully, this is not going to last for long and we know that better times are ahead. We have been travelling with JP, a Quebec sailor on his way around the world, for a week. It has been nice to have his company as we work ourselves down the ICW, with many of its shallow spots – and we do NOT want to get aground and have been lucky so far.
Two nights ago, we anchored in a swamp and it was vast and empty with tall grass all around us and no trees. The sunset provided a beautiful panorama of colours, which were reflected in the still waters. It was not a sound to be heard. All was stillness. And so COLD!!!! Dolphins were arising nearby. Don was startled by the blowing blast of one of about 8 feet in length that emerged about 10 feet from the boat. Another, the same distance away came out of the water and for a moment Don and it made eye contact, or so it seemed.
Yesterday, in Charleston, we and JP were looking for a restaurant. There was nothing close by, so we asked advice from a policeman sitting in his car. He was most friendly and recommended a place that was some walking distance. We proceeded to walk and after 15 minutes a police car came by, turned on its blue light, turned around then came by our side. It was the same policeman and he offered to drive us to any restaurant of our liking. He drove to the first – that was closed – then to a couple of others until we found one of his approval. Many were closed since it was Sunday night. The staff in the restaurant must have wondered who we were: day paroles out for a night, foreign dignitaries in disguise (we all had a different accent) …. The manager came over to make sure everything was OK. We called our chauffeur after dinner who promptly arrived and returned us to the shore. No doubt, he recognized us as the lost souls we were and figured it was best to deal with us before some raging crackhead did. But nevertheless his face (black) will be the face of Charleston hospitality for us.
We were touched by this act of kindness. It is not the only time we have seen this. So many of the local people we meet, are incredibly helpful, generous, outgoing and fun. We see a side of America that we really like – the people.
The sun is shining and after Don has finished his engine work, we will find our way to the food store and hopefully catch a glimpse of this town.

A cold front is to arrive tonight and bring wind and rain. On Wednesday, according to Chris Parker, a weather guru, we should have a friendly day to go offshore from Charleston to Fernadino Beach, Florida, on Wednesday. We hope so. The ICW has a few more challenges than we expected. It has never been the boring slog I anticipated. In fact it has been very interesting.

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N 33° 51' W 78° 39'

Nov 20 - Cold in Carolina

November 22, 2008

We remained in Hammock Bay for a second night as the forecast was for very strong winds – from a Canadian cold front of course. And when it did, we were glad to be in the boat rather than out there. The sky became dark and foreboding. The temperature dropped. We started to shiver. Snow came down fast and furious. The next morning we took off at dawn and it was freezing outside. It helped to have several layers of clothing, plus hats and mittens. It still was pretty bone chilling and not too pleasant. We started to feel an increased sense of urgency just keep on moving south in search of warmer climate. In the afternoon we arrived at our anchorage in Wrightsville beach, a trip of about 40 miles. It was so cold in the boat in the evening the best thing was to go to bed early and keep warm under layers of blankets and prepare for an early start the next morning. We started off in the chilly morning, but the sun shone from a clear blue sky and soon it became warmer and we could peel of some of our layers. This was a welcome change and the trip was enjoyable on the canal. We travelled through marsh lands and small towns. Along the shore there were many opulent houses and mansions with enormous gardens and lawns .Pelicans flew by, or sat perched on empty docks. We even saw a few dolphins jumping in and out of the water. It is a pure delight to watch their grace in the water and their playfulness. Finally we arrived here in Calabash creek, a small channel just off the ICW after 11 hours of travel time, almost in the dark and set anchor in this beautiful and very quiet bay. There are a number of boats beside us. And all of us are in pursuit of the same thing: being in a warm place and exploring new horizons. Tomorrow we will be in South Carolina.

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Nov 18: Hiding in Hammock Bay from the gale and tornados.

November 22, 2008

We moved from Beaufort on Monday to Hammock Bay, a small bay in a military site, about 40 miles west of Beaufort North Carolina. Beaufort was memorable: we didn’t mind the 33 knot gusts driving the driven rain. However, we learned what happens when a current turns the boat broadside to the wind. Nothing happens if the wind is less than 10 knots. But, we discovered, when it is 15 – 20 knots Blue Blazer the old thoroughbread decides to sail and become amorous toward other sailboats. This time a particular red filie that seemed likewise inclined. Needless to say, I spent from 2:00 a.m. to 5:00 am keeping them apart. It took my foot a few times and a boathook to prevent them from this most inappropriate relationship. Fortunately when the tide turned proper order was achieved. The next day, after re-anchoring, the current changed and again �.too many boats in small anchorages. And we learned one must consider the implications of many combinations of wind speeds and directions as well as current speeds and directions when dropping the hook. The trip was made interesting yesterday by the "live "fire exercise" put on by the US navy for our entertainment. Lots of VERY LOUD booming and an interesting assortment of big helicopters and planes with rotating motors on their wings. The anchorage is close to their landing area and you wouldn’t believe how many times a helicopter can land and take off every hour- for many hours. Earlier in he day the navy requested everyone avoid being within fifteen miles from a particular lat/long coordinant. Well, we were within that area and no option but to continue moving� certainly brings new meaning to the word "duck". The navy did have a guard boat to prevent boats from moving into a specific danger area. We were allowed to pass, so we felt safe. Others were held back for a number of hours, so they arrived in the dark to the crowded anchorage. The weather is interesting. Fortunately, the tornado watch yesterday produced nothing for us; although it did for some others in North Carolina – quite a mess. The wind will be strong for the next few days But it is a snug anchorage we are in. So we are staying here for the day while the wind is forecast to hit 35-40 knots during the day and night. A little much for my 10"prop even if it is "atomic" powered. . better to rely on chain and the 40 lb. rocna anchor.

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N 34° 42' W 76° 38'

Nov 14 - Took a brusing getting to Beaufort

November 14, 2008

It was an interesting day on the 13th. We left  a small anchorage south of Abelmarl Sound with a forecast for light drizzle. The drizzle got very chunky after a while. I mussed that at least there isn’t any lightning" then a moment later THUMP! THUMP! A bolt hit very close! But just then who passed us but Paul and Cheryl Chard in their new boat. Now what timing. Not only are they great people, but more importantly their mast was MUCH taller than ours. But soon they were gone. We started into an open passage when the wind hit us and the rain prevented our view of the next mark in a narrow channel. We stayed back along with another boat. We debated about returning to our anchorage or staying at a local marina, but realized, thanks to the weather radio on the chart plotter, that in an hour the rain would probably stop. We waited then went on focusing on the marks rather than the weather data. The rain returned along with 25 knots of wind filled rain when we were in a narrow channel. It was a bit unnerving finding our way. But we got through. Upon arrival at the anchorage in Beaufort a pod of about six dolphins were swimming up and down the channer by our boat. The universe is now in balance.

Our ability to communicate is now impaired in the short term. Unfortunately, during the heavy rains we talked with another boat on the VHF (located in the cabin) with another boat and rain got on the computer we use for our SSB email/blog communication. The old laptop is now acting very strange and we are pessimistic abouts our ability to use it. We have a backup, but it has not worked properly yet. This update is made from a wifi connection in a cafe. These are infrequently found since we are often in small places, or just an anchorage in the waterway.  

We hope to have soon a few more pictures in the photo section of this blog. Just click on the botton labelled "photos".

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N 35° 01' W 76° 33'

Nov 11 - Baffed in Belhaven

November 08, 2008

Hampton – just north of Norfolk: We stayed several days on anchor where we met Kathy and Rob, on Quetico, busily preparing for their crossing to Bermuda. As I write this, they have been out on the ocean for three days and seem to have picked a good weather window, We heard from them that they expect to be in Bermuda tomorrow, Tuesday. Lucky guys!!! They are now "live-aboards" for an unforseeable future. We have met quite a few, who live on their boats all year round and they love it, going south in the winter and north in the summer. I can see what they mean, as this life slowly creeps into your system and the turquoise waters beckon you to move southward. Norfolk: BIG BIG ships: big pointed bows, big guns, gray paint on everything. The Navy is definitely here. Norfolk was our home for four nights – one on anchor and three at the Waterside marina. Don flew to Toronto on the fourth , election day. I spent the whole evening, watching CNN, as did millions around the globe. It was an unforgettable election and truly amazing to see the positive impact Obama already has had on so many. Let’s hope he can be instrumental in putting us all on a different course, than the one we have been on for some years now. It was comforting to be in the marina in Norfolk as the weather was truly awful. Lots of rain, lots of wind, often blowing 30 – 40 miles/hour and the air felt very cool. Don got brain warp. In downtown Toronto for one day to see his Dentist then scrambling around downtown Toronto to get stuff we needed. The next in Norfolk surrounded by high tech "warships" (as they call themselves on the VHF) The next day a remote landscape that has changed little since 1805 when slaves "hand dug" the canal: 20 feet wide, 8 feet deep and twenty-five miles long. Traveling in the canal and contemplating its history makes for a sense of poignacy – an amazing feat, but so much misery. The Dismal Swamp – such a delightful place at least for us. It is beautiful: deep chocolate coloured waters, (caused by tanin from the vegetation), yellow leaves drifting down from the tree-lined borders, thickets of shrubs and both long needle pine trees and leafy trees in various shades of green, yellow and brown remind one of an early September day in the bush. The trees are mirrored in the still water. When we stopped the engine, there was complete stillness: only us, the canal, and the swamp. We let the boat drift. Don had his head in the engine, a common event. I felt like one with the surroundings. This is one of the rewards of not being a mechanic!! In the evening we docked at the "Visitors Centre" with about ten other boats. We got together for a pot-luck dinner on the shore . A very memorable evening and the cool fall air was quickly forgotten as we all gathered around the picnic table under a big tree and talked for several hours. Pongo River Canal – the Texas version of the Murray Canal. A few hours ago, we set anchor in Belhaven, North Carolina. This morning we raised the anchor at the entrance to the Pungo River Canal. Our trip was only 33 miles of sunshine, but the cold had us bundled up in our Toronto clothes. The botany of the canal changes as you move along. Low grasses give way to taller shrubs then trees. Vast open grass areas studded with dead trees suggest things have changed since the canal was built about 200 years ago. An eagle gave us approving nod as we passed by his dead tree perch. Later an owl couldn’t figure out what all the boats were going. The profound quite is shattered by the motors of the convoy of about twelve southbound boats. Aromatic air prickles your nose you pass certain trees.

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